A Xin Xian Lao (Gongnong Road)

This no-frills shop is famous for lao hua, or Fujian-style noodle soup. First, pick your noodles from the 18 choices, then choose your toppings from dozens of options, ranging from offal and blood curd to oyster and squid. Made fresh daily, their MSG-free pork bone broth boasts depth and umami. Feel free to sprinkle scallion, coriander, pickles and fried garlic on top. Beef brisket fat dressed in a mildly spicy sauce is also a good choice.