Xiang Bin Xuan (Huayuan Road)

For almost 20 years, diners have been flocking here for authentic Hunanese fare. Head of organic bighead carp is traditionally steamed with heaps of chopped chillies, but you can also opt for the variation that uses two kinds of chillies, or have it braised with perilla leaves. Soft and umami-laden, the fried duck in Yongzhou style is perfumed in litsea oil. Snacks like stinky tofu and mugwort dumplings are also popular. Expect to queue at mealtimes.