Maketto

Credit to chef-owner Erik Bruner-Yang and his team for keeping it fresh, as it were. On ever-changing H Street, this long-favored restaurant at first looks like a clothing store with its glittering display cases lined with chic merch. More impressive, though, is what’s on the menu: A diverse, ambitious, and consistently satisfying roster of dishes inspired by flavors from across Asia. Everything here is designed to share, starting with Cantonese-style shrimp dumplings dressed in Cambodian fish sauce and garnished with dill. What’s next? A Thai-spicy riff on pork laab with bone marrow? An imposing boulder of crispy fried chicken laced in five-spice caramel? There are no rules, no borders, in this house, and diners wouldn’t want it any other way.