Zitz Sum

There are countless rules and traditions when it comes to cooking, but don’t tell Pablo Zitzmann, whose inspiration stretches from China to Japan to Italy. Following the wild success of his dumpling pop-up, the Colombian chef found a home on the ground floor of an admittedly stoic office building in Coral Gables. It is the last place you would expect to find ba filled with Niman ranch short rib topped with habanada sofrito and chili crunch, or a thick wedge of charred cabbage capped with melted parmesan cheese and set in a pool of Fresno chili butter.The cooking is original and gutsy; and plates like the shrimp har gow with lime and a tamarind-black garlic chutney exemplify a kind of fearless, borderless ethos that, in the end, makes delicious sense.