Xiang Mo Jin Nian

Its façade may be nondescript but its open-air kitchen provides quite a spectacle. Minnan-style soups are slow-cooked over heated sand on clay stoves for three to four hours so need to be pre-ordered; the availability of some soups is limited. Signatures include Muscovy duck soup with mud crab, which combines seafood umami with meaty flavours, and braised soft-shelled tortoise seasoned with ginger and green Sichuan peppercorns.