Limbo

This bistro in the heart of Little Italy, a stone's throw from Jean-Talon Market, is now run by chef Harrison Shewchuk. On his concise, seasonal menu, a handful of timeless classics – such as beef tartare with beef jelly and trout roe – sit alongside a roster of dishes that change with the seasons, making particular use of vegetables sourced from a farm in the Estrie region. The chef is a fan of offal and gives it the gourmet treatment, eg breaded veal brains with sauce ravigote or devilled beef tongue. This modern cuisine with its roots in the classic French repertoire goes down a treat with organic and natural wines.