Ishq

Promises of “modern Indian” often bring more flash than flavor, but that is not the case at this welcoming restaurant along Avenue A. A striking salmon-pink quartz bar stretches the length of the front area and into a moodier dining room where groups gather around generously spaced tables. The menu is teeming with ideas, and dishes arrive with all the right levels of spice, heat, depth, and nuance. “Jalebi Chaat” is a savory, textural playground with chickpeas, beetroot, and a sweet and sour yogurt. There must be butter chicken, which comes doused in a complex tomato makhani sauce. There must also be lamb shank biryani, portioned for a party and spiced to the hilt. Everything is designed to be shared so plan accordingly.