Xiao Shan Wei Dao

This tiny shop specialising in Xiaoshan cooking has no paper menu – you pick from the fish tank and various dishes on display. Steaming is a key characteristic of Xiaoshan cuisine and, here, river fish, meat and vegetables are steamed with ham and cured pork, yellow wine, or chicken fat and soy sauce to bring out their natural flavours. Three-year-old duck is steamed with ham for intense umami. The pork stuffed omelette roll is another must-try.