Filigrana

This colorful, sun-soaked address from Chef Martha Ortiz has looks and substance in spades. At the base of a residential building in Roma, find a concrete jungle with purple-cushioned chairs, soaring floor-to-ceiling windows, and fully grown trees woven throughout. And much like the space itself, the cooking is equally stylish with thoughtful, playful interpretations of familiar favorites. Start with the gordita, a delicate, crispy disc packed with tender, shredded tongue and garnished with fried epazote leaves. Is there a prettier tamal around? This one is presented as a toasted cube made with fried portobellos and set in a warm guajillo chili sauce. Another highlight is the pozole brujo, featuring superbly tender chicken and a soulful, spicy broth.