Citadel

"Citadel" in the Storage Tower of the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin – a new project from restaurateur Ekaterina Zaydes and the RED WALL restaurant team.

This unique complex is located on the grounds of a cultural monument of federal significance, built between 1500 and 1511. It features several concepts within the water space of what was once a four-tiered defensive structure: a bistro on the first level with a cart of ice cream made from farm milk, a dessert display case, the signature gastronomy of Red Wall Market, and a shop selling souvenirs from regional crafts. There's also a city cafe serving Nizhny Novgorod cuisine on the second level, a bar-snack area with an ice room in the basement, and a chef's table hosted by chef Artem Atopshev at the very top, under the tower's vaults. Combining history, traditions, authentic flavors, and local regional products, "Citadel" not only presents them in a unique way but also introduces visitors to local chefs, providing a new reason to embark on a gastronomic journey to Nizhny Novgorod each time.

Opening a restaurant in a 500-year-old Kremlin tower is an unprecedented move. Ekaterina Zaydes has once again combined this with a serious mission. While RED WALL was the first in Nizhny Novgorod to promote zero-waste principles, "Citadel" showcases the first chef's table that focuses not on established masters, but on chefs from the Nizhny Novgorod region and the Volga region, whose stars may be shining for the first time in the very heart of Central Russia.

To adapt the historical space for modern use, "Citadel" brought in the best design studios. The bar-snack area and the upper level of the tower were designed by the Art group led by Darya Vasilkova, who used custom tiles from the "Reda" collection to create the bar and tables. The tiles feature patterns inspired by characters from Russian folk tales, fragments of architectural styles, and memories. The design for the first and second levels was developed by Alexander Frukht, head of the Nizhny Novgorod-based Fruit Design studio, which brings together designers, architects, engineers, furniture makers, and artists. To reflect the richness and diversity of the crafts of the Nizhny Novgorod region, the project features works by local artisans. They bring a unique flavor to the project, where the memories of generations are closely linked to the strength of the land and the energy of life. Like amulets, embroidered linen napkins with Gorodets patterns, which hold a whole mythology – a lion, a bird-siren, and a pharaoh, – create a sense of comfort and tranquility. The same pharaoh motifs, representing the pride and majesty of Russian women, are featured on the wooden columns of the third floor, painted by Nizhny Novgorod artist Kirill Tarasov. The delicate lines, patterns, and graphic elements evoke the technique of Cossack filigree. Another craft, Chkalovsky guipure lace, is used in the napkins and the unusual apron-style waist pouches worn by the waitstaff. And, of course, Khokhloma – masters from the Semenovsk Khokhloma factory have transformed nesting dolls into salt and pepper shakers, monochrome and graphic, reinterpreting traditions in a modern design.

Chef Artem Atopshev also draws inspiration from history, traditions, and the products of the region, introducing locals to flavors they've known since childhood. The cafe menu features lightly salted Bor cucumbers with horseradish, dill, and blackcurrant leaves, grown in greenhouses at the "Gorkovsky" agro-complex on the banks of the Volga River. There are potato croquettes with salty gruzdy (a type of fish) from the Lukoyanov forests, served with sour cream and onions, as well as a jellied dish made from wild boar with pickled cranberries, mustard, and fresh horseradish. And, of course, there are ducklings from the restaurant's farm in Pavlov, which were previously only available at RED WALL. Now, you can find them at "Citadel": duck rillettes with a confiture made from Arzamas onions and mini-éclairs filled with foie gras.

Each dish features not only unique local ingredients and a harmonious blend of flavors but also its own legend. The pâté made from smoked carp from the Volga region is shaped like a fish, inspired by motifs from Khokhloma painting. The recipe for the Povetluga fish soup, made with Sudak fish, sturgeon, trout, and white mushrooms, was brought by the chef from the banks of the Vetluga River, which is rich in fish and surrounded by forests, and combines two of the region's oldest crafts – fishing and foraging. Sturgeon and salmon are served on a bed of Arzamas onions braised in white wine and butter, and are also featured in an open-crust Vskresensky pie. A lemon biscuit roulade hides a familiar flavor beneath Gorodets and Khokhloma patterns.

Head bartender Stanislav Bukhtiyarov picks up on the theme, using the bar menu to showcase the character of the region through combinations of local products sourced throughout the Nizhny Novgorod region, combined with modern mixology techniques. The cocktails are named after the ten towers of the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin, and each one reflects its namesake: the "Ivanovskiy" cocktail features Ivan-tea syrup, and the "Dmitrievskiy" cocktail features vodka with melon, a southern berry, as the Dmitrievskiy tower is the southernmost.

But even before you have the time or mood for a cocktail, there's a reason to visit "Citadel": it's the hot chocolate that was served in the cafe that used to be located in the current "Citadel." It's another bridge between generations and another tradition that has been preserved.