Geoélia

In an upmarket neighbourhood, this restaurant on a corner charms with its bright interior with contemporary lines, white concrete cladding and a pair of majestic Murano glass chandeliers. Breton chef Camille Saint-M'Leux (previously at Villa9Trois in Montreuil) named his venture after his grandparents' sailboat. The cuisine aligns with the tides and the seasons: poached langoustine with its "next-day" soup; red mullet with its scales, a jus made from the bones, and XO sauce; Breton blue lobster in a pastry-sealed casserole... Artfully structured dishes in which fish, seafood and vegetables share the limelight. Meat lovers can rest easy, as they will also find something to their liking on the menu or among the specials.