Cullum's Attaboy

Set in a little bungalow that’s as cute as a cupcake, this brunch-only, walk-in, counter-style bistro off the St. Mary's strip can do no wrong. Snag a seat at the counter and watch as the open kitchen dabbles in affordable French luxury with the likes of proper omelets and a whole lot of butter, hollandaise, truffles, and caviar offered at every turn. The menu is the right size. Think doughnuts dusted in powdered sugar that rival the best beignets or sandwiches stacked with smoked brisket, egg, and cheese served on beautifully bronzed rolls made in house. One unexpected sleeper hit is the breakfast potatoes, which outclass all other versions by miles. A chalkboard out front encourages diners to try a “Champagne breakfast.” It’s a perfect idea.