Pekarnya Ukhvat

Reviving Russian Baking Traditions

At the end of September, a new project from Vadim Smirnov, the owner of the "Ukhvat" restaurant, will open in Moscow, in the area of the Three Hills Manufactory, on Rochdelskaya Street. It's a bakery with the same name, which will breathe new life into their unique product: bread baked in a traditional oven. The head chef is Anton Istratov, the best young chef in Russia in 2024, according to the "Silver Triangle" competition.

The "Ukhvat" bakery is a keeper of the authentic Russian baking traditions, embodied in the context of modern cuisine. This space, where the secrets of the famous Filippov kalach (a type of bread roll) come to life, will be a bridge between the past and present of Russian baking. The project combines a traditional bakery with an open production area, a cozy cafe with breakfast served all day, and a serious approach to coffee.

The concept is based on deep respect for centuries-old traditions: only natural sourdough is used, and the dough is prepared using traditional methods. A special point of pride is the open bakery, where guests can observe the entire sacred process of bread making, from the "raising" of the dough to the golden crust.

The concept of "new nostalgia" at "Ukhvat" is not just a modern interpretation, but a true revival of traditions. Borodinsky bread, made according to an ancient monastic recipe, is the basis for an exquisite Benedict. The kalach with sesame seeds is part of a "hearty breakfast" with avocado, cheese, egg, prosciutto, and kvass salt – a future hit on the breakfast menu, available all day. The bakery team visited the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery in Murom to try the kalach according to an authentic recipe, and they also reinterpreted the recipe from the famous Filippov bakery, whose products were renowned throughout Europe in the early 20th century. Bagels, which have long been a staple of the Russian festive table, are brought to life here in a modern way: with fillings of pastrami and salmon.

The bakery will have a separate bread menu featuring original varieties of bread in the Russian tradition: "5 grains," rye fruit bread, sourdough with cranberries, and others. The pastry display case also features traditional Russian pastries in a unique style: the famous Moscow "paltushka" (a type of sweet bread), layered cheese-filled pastries, honey gingerbread with poppy seeds, a nostalgic croissant from the Soviet era with pistachio cream, a chocolate "kolobok" (a round bread), as if brought to life from a Russian fairy tale, and even a Borodinsky croissant with coriander. Thanks to the creativity of the bakery chefs, a "forgotten" charcoal-colored croissant with vanilla cream has also been created: it was designed to look as if it hadn't been taken out of the oven in time.

The main menu features special dishes such as tartare with cheese balls made from Grana Padano, cheese cream soup, and "po-flotsky" ravioli – an original, gastronomic interpretation of those very pasta dishes.

The Benedict with delicate salmon on a sweet bun, a sandwich on rye focaccia, and "lyapun" (a type of flatbread) with tuna – each dish features traditional ingredients and unusual flavor combinations.

The coffee menu, inspired by the history and culture of Russia, includes Borodinsky cappuccino with notes of rye bread and caramel, latte with blackthorn berries, latte with juniper and rose hips, and other signature drinks.

The interior, designed by Diana Generallova and Marina Kamanina ("ArkBuro"), features a Russian style alongside bright, modern color schemes: warm tones and natural textures (oak, ash, etc.). Furniture and decorative lighting from Russian designers are used, such as woven pendant lights and sconces with Slavic folk motifs – handmade by designer Kristina Evstigneeva from Kaliningrad.

On one of the walls, there is an art collaboration with the famous Rostov artist Oleg Kalinichenko (Tom 3). In his interpretation, Moscow is a fantastic bread metropolis: loaves, baguettes, and muffins are juxtaposed with recognizable skyscrapers and towers of Moscow City.