Holbox

Its namesake is a Caribbean island just off the coast of the Yucatán Peninsula, but this beloved counter, located inside the Mercado La Paloma, is a distinctively Angelino phenomenon. Chef Gilbert Cetina, who previously cooked with his father at neighboring stall Chichen Itza, draws from Mexican coastal cuisines in dishes whose simplicity belies remarkable flavor. Spectacular quality seafood of unassailable freshness leaves an impression, whether in electrifyingly vibrant aguachiles and ceviches, excellent tacos served on house-made heirloom corn tortillas or skillfully grilled lobster — a panoply of exceptional house salsas gilds the lily. The frequently changing menu offers no shortage of delights, and a tasting menu, offered by reservation only on Wednesdays and Thursdays, is hotly sought-after.