Kato

Chef Jonathan Yao has found a grand stage in this cool enclave of polished concrete in the Row DTLA. Here, he and his team have worked diligently to hone an inspired tasting menu, drawing deftly from his Taiwanese background and LA upbringing, threading a path between boldness with refinement. Gently cooked Mt. Lassen trout is bathed in a vibrant, complex fish broth bolstered with fermented Napa cabbage tingling spice, while crisp-skinned Peking-style duck breast is matched with a sesame ball filled with juicy confit and a rich jus flavored with citrusy magao pepper, at once comforting and excitingly original. Long forgotten are the BYOB days: the list now boasts an impressive wine list, enticing cocktails and exceptional spirit-free creations.