Dell' Arte

In the heart of Moscow, there's a corner of Europe, tucked away in the alleyways near the Tretyakov Gallery. Here, the streets are paved with smooth tiles, and in the summer, the silvery spray of a fountain dances in the shade of ancient trees. Birds fly in the square, children play, and time seems to stand still in one of its most idyllic and happy moments. All this quiet happiness of old Moscow is lovingly reflected in the large panoramic windows of Dell' Arte. The Dell' Arte family cafe is located in the quietest and most charming corner of central Moscow, steeped in the spirit of the times. Nearby are some of the country's most iconic galleries, numerous small private galleries, and antique shops. The large windows offer views of Shmelev Square and the "Inspiration" fountain, which features three bronze panels that evoke the works of famous artists: Viktor Vasnetsov's "Tsar Ivan the Terrible," Ilya Mashkov's "Moscow Delicacies. Breads," and Arkhip Kuindzhi's "Birch Grove." Stepping into the cafe, the magical effect of the fountain's gentle spray continues: the abundance of light and air, the minimalist furnishings, and the many plants all create an inspiring atmosphere. In the morning, guests are greeted by the aroma of freshly brewed coffee at the bar, located right by the entrance. From lunchtime onwards, the clinking of glasses can be heard, children play in the children's room, and the air is filled with the aromas of dishes from all over the world. The head chef at Dell' Arte is the young and talented Dmitry Polkin, who advocates an author's approach to cooking, focusing on the product itself and its original properties and flavors, rather than following trends. Inspired by dishes from different cuisines around the world, he strives to recreate the unique character of their classic interpretations. However, when the inspiration comes from the ingredients themselves, his skills and the culinary intuition passed down through generations of chefs come into play, giving each dish its own distinctive character, meticulously crafted by Dmitry. For breakfast, Dell' Arte offers a wide variety of egg dishes, including turkey Benedict (580 rubles), scrambled eggs with tomatoes and lightly smoked salmon (790 rubles), and fluffy omelets (200 rubles). Gluten-free cheesecakes are served with brandy cherries and sour cream (350 rubles), and granola is complemented by coconut milk, chia seeds, and banana (520 rubles). For those who prefer porridge, Dell' Arte offers oatmeal with caramelized banana and marshmallows (380 rubles) and rice porridge with nuts and berries (480 rubles). And for those who prefer to start their day with a flaky croissant, there are three filling options to choose from: lightly smoked salmon with feta mousse and a light salad (540 rubles), pastrami with marinated zucchini and Hollandaise sauce (480 rubles), and duck breast with avocado (490 rubles). Among the appetizers, be sure to try the rabbit pâté with mango chutney (580 rubles), beef tartare with marinated oyster mushrooms, feta mousse, and Borodinsky rye chips (860 rubles), and a tartare of two types of fish: salmon and tuna, served with tapioca chips and strawberries (880 rubles). The salad selection includes duck breast salad with orange segments and berries (710 rubles), a vegetable salad with homemade dressing (520 rubles), and a salad with smoked eel, a sorrel sauce, and sesame chips (880 rubles). For fans of Hawaiian cuisine, there are four types of poke: salmon (870 rubles), spicy tuna (910 rubles), caramelized shrimp (860 rubles), and turkey pastrami (660 rubles). The Laotian-inspired Tom Yum soup (790 rubles) is a must-try, as is the Californian seafood chowder (660 rubles) with smoked bacon and corn. And of course, there are many Italian influences throughout the menu. There's a whole section dedicated to Roman-style pizza, including gorgonzola with pear (740 rubles), a cheese pizza with seasonal berries (780 rubles), a Margherita with sun-dried tomatoes (610 rubles), and more. Dell' Arte also offers pasta fresca, handmade pasta, which Chef Dmitry Polkin complements with various sauces and ingredients characteristic of different regions of the country. Carbonara is served with bacon and prosciutto (660 rubles), rye casarecce is served with braised beef, mushrooms, and a red wine sauce (710 rubles), and the chef prepares pasta in the form of maccaroni with seafood (980 rubles). Among the main courses, the marble beef medallions with mushrooms and corn in a creamy-oyster sauce (1090 rubles), sous vide salmon with spinach and coconut milk (1160 rubles), and pike perch cutlets with mashed potatoes, mushrooms, and caviar sauce (860 rubles) are particularly noteworthy. The dessert menu at Dell' Arte is designed so that every guest can find a delightful complement to their coffee or tea. Classic favorites like Napoleon and Honey Cake (420 rubles each) are available, as well as carrot cake in two variations: vegan (220 rubles) and classic (440 rubles), cheesecake (400 rubles), and profiteroles (110 rubles). For those who prefer gluten-free, sugar-free, and lactose-free desserts, Dell' Arte offers a selection of healthy options: two types of éclairs – almond and peanut (310 rubles each) – and five types of delicate cashew-based mousses (250 rubles each), with mint and chocolate, lime, basil, and strawberry, mango and passion fruit, raspberry and mint, and blackcurrant and chocolate. The wine list was curated by Sergei Popov, who has harmoniously combined a wide variety of wines, including an excellent selection of sparkling and champagne wines, a comprehensive range of Italian wines from every region of the Apennine Peninsula, as well as wines from France, Argentina, the United States, Australia, Spain, and Portugal. Here, everyone can find a wine that suits their geographical, varietal, or personal preferences. The lush, green interior of Dell' Arte is a testament to comfort and inspiration: the light beige tones are complemented by watercolor tile panels in every imaginable shade of green and Italian masks on the walls. The space is divided into two levels: the first floor, with 8-meter ceilings, is filled with light streaming through panoramic windows, and the more intimate mezzanine on the second floor. For younger guests, there's a specially designed children's room on the second floor, where every child can find something to keep them entertained. During the warmer months, guests can also relax on the veranda, where the comfortable wicker furniture and the atmosphere of the square with its fountain evoke the charm of European towns. And while you're in the heart of old Moscow, it feels like you're actually in Geneva or Aix-en-Provence, especially with the cuisine and wines that continue this fantasy. The only real difference is the incredibly friendly service, which you won't find in any European town! And despite the season, it's clear that happiness is always within reach: at the sun-drenched family cafe Dell' Arte, with a view of the "Inspiration" fountain!