Skua

This tiny basement operation in the suburb of Stockbridge comes with dark, moody décor and impressive cooking from the get-go. The menu of rustic sharing plates pushes flavour-packed British ingredients to the fore and the dishes are pleasingly free of superfluous elements, allowing their central components to shine. A carefully curated list includes a selection of natural wines, with those available by the glass listed on the blackboard. Cheery, well-organised service adds to the experience.