Tohakuan Karibe

With the temperament of an artist, the chef places everything in its proper proportion. Gathering unpolished buckwheat from Nagano and Niigata, he grinds the two together, checking moisture by hand to produce nihachi and juwari noodles. Soba and broth are served in harmony: as seiro, accompanied by soup redolent of katsuobushi, or as kake, steeped in hot katsuobushi broth. Side dishes are soba-shop favourites, such as Pacific herring simmered for days or seafood and buckwheat flour wrapped in nori and deep-fried.