Tong Ma Ma (Xihu)

Slightly off the beaten track, the wood- and bamboo-rich interior exudes a rustic, farmhouse feel. Similarly, farm-style cooking from the Qiandao Lake region defines the menu, showcasing ingredients like dried bamboo shoot, free-range chicken, river fish and foraged greens. Sautéed fiddlehead with cured ham packs big crispy flavours. Thick rice soup is loaded with tofu, chillies, garlic, pork intestine and dried fiddlehead, boasting deep umami.