Tatemó

The famous idiom about not judging a book by its cover couldn’t be more applicable than to this tortilleria-turned-tasting menu. In an empty strip mall with little around except for a brewery and a doughnut shop, Chef Emmanuel Chavez delivers a beautifully pitched and portioned experience that celebrates heirloom corn from across Mexico. Start with a crisp tostada topped with tuna and a luxurious scoop of caviar, then a fine Tlacoyo de suadero comes with a multi-layered and tasty Mexican XO sauce. The most original and striking effort might be the black-as-night mole negro, which comes blanketed under a tortilla made from nixtamalized plantains. If you want wine, you’ll need to bring your own, as the restaurant doesn’t have a liquor license.