Substance

Established in a bourgeois neighbourhood of Paris, the duo of this fashionable eatery, Aurora Storari and Flavio Lucarini, rolls out a vibrant score in the zeitgeist dotted with nods to Italy and a weakness for super-local, seasonal ingredients. Addictive sauces enhance the repertory, depicted by a dish of green peas and wild garlic that flanks an indulgent morel stuffed in salted beef (cecina), all of which is bound together by a refreshing plant or tangy citrus note. Don’t miss the house signatures: a bold, new spin on spaghetti cacio et pepe with a house-made tomato-laced zaatar. The entirely plant-based menu is truly mouthwatering. Splendid list of mostly organic or natural wines. What’s not to like?