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Timing is everything, but Chef Gus Stieffenhofer-Brandson and his team have a preternatural ability for sensing when produce is at its peak. Whether showcasing it on the plate or pickling and preserving it (those jars even double as decor), they're sourcing and foraging from local farms and forests.The contemporary fare bears the chef's distinct imprimatur. This is food that is at once familiar and surprising. A small dish of asparagus with brown butter crouton and a sauce gribiche is the very essence of spring, while an artful bowl with a pinwheel of side-striped prawns, refreshing apple and cucumber and a cool touch of horseradish delivers a sweet-tart, one-two punch. The roasted halibut's lush and buttery "broth" is unlike anything you anticipated.