Protégé

Chef Anthony Secviar and Master Sommelier Dennis Kelly are both alums of The French Laundry, but although the service is adroit (and the wine list excellent), this sleek modern space is far from stuffy. Likewise, expect thoughtful, well-balanced cuisine that shows refinement without being precious. The dining room's multicourse tasting menu includes the likes of Pacific sablefish with sweet onion dashi, 9-layer morel mushroom lasagna with Madeira sauce, and Flannery Beef with green garlic gnocchi. An à la carte menu is on offer in the lounge—think brick chicken with piperade, capers, and chorizo—plus a dessert trolly that features excellent tarts and cookies.