Nōksu

Eating underground in the subway system may not sound appealing, but that hasn't stopped this ambitious team. In the heart of Koreatown at Herald Square behind a code-locked door, find a black marble counter that stretches the length of the room. Every chef is armed with tweezers to manage and primp gorgeous dishes that are largely contemporary in their design. Seafood is a serious focus with the likes of crab, fluke and clams. Past highlights include an extravagant uni beignet, mackerel with lemongrass and Thai basil, and soymilk ice cream with jujube cake and dulce de leche. A rocking playlist overhead and a sharp service team round out the singular experience.