MODERN FRENCH

Maison Wenger

Le NoirmontModern French
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In his elegant lair, owner-chef Jérémy Desbraux quietly regales us with satisfying wholesome fare, crafted with textbook precision. Rather than fussy or contrived, everything smacks of crisp, legible regional flavours to the delight of discerning foodies. For example, the appetisers and petits fours use Swiss rice and local honey and the bread is made entirely from flour ground by a local mill. Even the table arts are a nod to the region from a bell jar that pays tribute to Tête de moine cheese to a huge watch case bearing the restaurant’s logo in honour of the local watchmaking tradition. The establishment’s trolleys piled high with refreshing aperitifs, after-dinner drinks and cheeses, which are, of course, produced by artisans, also catch the eye. A warm, professional welcome and a wine list worth writing home about. A word of advice: small groups should book the chef’s table near the kitchen for an extra-special experience.

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