Lielle

Some reservations feel like a victory, and scoring a table at Chef Marcus Jernmark's white-hot Lielle is exactly that. Everyone is here for a taste of his Californian cuisine, where the concise product-focused tasting menu may be supplemented by the likes of agnolotti del plin with Gruyère cheese custard, black truffles and beurre noisette. Jernmark's cooking is precise and skillful yet far from fussy, as in aged shima aji crudo with cool, grilled sweet peas and cucumber brunoise or California squab grilled over pine and accompanied by a crisp salad dressed with a vinaigrette of miso made from the leftover house-baked bread. This cozy lair feels hidden away with its windowless dining room, intimate tables and barrel-vaulted ceiling.