La Once Mil

In a city teeming with every kind of taco imaginable, it’s a Herculean task to rise above the throng, but there’s no denying that this bustling operation manages the feat with style. Once seated, diners will find their tables decked out with an impressive array of excellent house-made salsas, ranging from gentle (a vibrant salsa cruda) to incendiary (a beguiling “martajada” with arbol and morita chiles) but the fireworks are just beginning. Top-quality meats are a feature, as in a marvelously succulent, flavorful Prime arrachera — you’ll be hard-pressed to find better in any steakhouse. Just as impressive are the handmade tortillas, with multiple varieties cooked to order with remarkable efficiency. Combined, a single bite is all that’s needed to make you a believer.