L'Émulsion

In this tastefully restored farmstead in Bas-Dauphiné, chef Romain Hubert crafts carte blanche menus that err between tradition and creativity. His cuisine, which owes much to the first-rate quality of its meticulously sourced ingredients, 99% of which are local and purchased direct, is a consummate blend of taste and texture: green and white asparagus, trout and lovage; free-range rabbit cooked three ways with chards.