Khom Loi

Is anyone surprised that the team behind Ramen Gaijin has another hit on their hands? The chefs here have traveled extensively throughout Thailand, which inspired them to bring its flavors back to Sebastopol. Certainly, anyone expecting the sweeter, Americanized side of Thai cooking is in for an awakening. This is food that is seasoned boldly, by turns spicy, fresh and complex. From green papaya salad to fried chicken with a punchy nam jim dipping sauce, flavor abounds. The pastes for all the curries are also made in house, as with a heady massaman curry featuring golden potatoes and meltingly tender braised beef.The space, too, is stunning, thanks to lofty ceilings, bamboo lanterns and a tranquil pond.