Jiu Yan (Hehai East Road)

Near a dinosaur theme park, the interior is drenched in natural light amid lush greenery. On the menu, authentic Changzhou cooking takes centre stage. Must-tries include casserole of stewed fish head made with bighead carp from the nearby Tianmu Lake: the milky broth is loaded with umami, the fish is flaky and silky and the dish is theatrically unveiled at the table. Free-range chicken sautéed in camellia seed oil with basil seduces with heady aromas.