Ippuku

Can’t swing a ticket to Tokyo? Dinner at Ippuku is the next best thing. With its low Japanese-style tables, extensive woodwork and enormous selection of sake and shochu, it feels like a slice of Japan transplanted into a corner of downtown Berkeley. The low-profile entrance adds to the feeling that you’ve lucked upon a special dining secret — assuming you don’t stroll right past it, that is. Yakitori is the big draw here, with specialty cuts like thigh "oyster," tail, neck, shoulder and even breast rolled with shiso and salted plum, all arriving juicy and beautifully seared, fresh off the binchotan. Other excellent small plates include panko-breaded oysters, crisp on the outside and with a creamy interior, or the fresh yuba tofu skins with savory ankake sauce and wasabi.