Ipoh Kopitiam

Is there ever not a wait at this friendly Malaysian café? Chef Kenji Tang clearly knows his audience, and day or night the line to get in can be as dense as the takeout tickets that pile up on the front counter. Tang fills a welcome niche with a succinct menu of Malaysian staples in a neighborhood better known for its Chinese restaurants. The Hainanese chicken is the default order for good reason: gently poached, tender and served cold with a trio of sauces and a dome of seasoned rice. Chicken curry shows an ability to layer finely tuned spices and is best paired with hot, flaky roti canai, while simple pleasures like kaya toast underscore the kitchen's strength with classics done correctly. Wok-fired dishes like char kway teow round out the menu for those looking to dig deeper.