Farmer & Sons

In an expanding neighbourhood on the outskirts of the city, this white-tiled bistro is the perfect place to taste modernised, lightened versions of traditional Polish dishes that have lost none of their punchy flavour. A few prime steaks sold by weight are ideal for celebrating, but the real value is to be found in the likes of the ‘szare klunchy’ (‘grey ducks’) dumplings topped with melting beef cheek, sauerkraut and a rich demi-glace sauce thickened with bone marrow. Polite, helpful service is an added bonus.