Fan Shui Chang Yu Mian (North Jiefang Road)

This neighbourhood noodle shop rose to fame after appearing on a TV show. Wild-caught rice paddy eel is the main event here. In the noodles in milky eel bone broth, "dry" noodles tossed in sauces, or fried noodles topped with sautéed eel in a peppery glaze, the umami is pronounced and the textures well layered. The milky broth, which takes six hours to make, is also a highlight. Sample different cuts of the deboned eel for different textures.