CHINESE

Dumpling Home

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You can try the hot and sour soup, poke at the soybean noodle salad and sample the hand-pulled noodles, but please, read the room — and the awning that wraps around the building. This casual eatery excels in the delicate art of soup dumplings, which arrive with supple skins and spoonfuls of delicious broth with more clarity and intensity than most. From open till close, chefs in the back wrap and fold everything by hand, and unlike most kitchens that are content to offer just a typical pork variety, fillings here include chicken, beef and our favorite, a Sichuan-inspired numbing pork.A prime corner location in the Theater District lures in the crowds, who clearly work up an appetite by walking by table after table of bamboo steamers stacked to the sky.

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