Chả Cá Thăng Long (6B Duong Thanh Street)

Opened over 30 years, this restaurant has three branches on one street. Head to the most popular, at 6B: a pale-yellow, century-old townhouse accessible via a quaint courtyard. The menu stars chả cá, deboned Hemibagrus catfish (cá lăng), seasoned with turmeric, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. Served in a hot pot, it is lightly stir-fried with spring onions and herbs – best enjoyed with rice noodles and fish sauce.