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What more could you want out of this little charmer in East Village? Always on the move, Hand Hospitality delivers again with a nicely pitched and portioned set menu of comforting Korean flavors. Find sleek degrees of refinement in winners like asparagus and lobster resting in a chilled pine nut sauce or snow crab wrapped in a thin cigar of daikon and set in a warm crab broth. All entrees like grilled duck with endive and black garlic puree come with banchan and a welcome bowl of rice and soup, which are kept warm in three cauldrons at the bar up front. Dessert is extra but worth ordering: A generous scoop of misugaru ice cream with rice caramel and cookie crumble is a sweet finale in this narrow, minimalist dining room.
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