Carmelita Molino y Cocina

Named for Chef José Figueroa's grandmother, who inspired his love of cooking, this charming Tijuana dining room has an airy vibe with warm-toned wood furnishings, tile-and-concrete flooring, and a screen-covered roof. Corn is revered here and is sourced from small family farms around Mexico, then nixtamalized and ground in-house. Tortillas are prepared on the comal up front for the tacos and tostadas that comprise the menu, while ceviche, and egg dishes round it out. You can't go wrong with chilaquiles dressed with salsa borracha, but don't sleep on the tamal of the day. It's big, prepared in a banana leaf, and may be filled with braised beef rib and roasted local cherry tomatoes.