Cardamom

This unassuming Indian restaurant on a quiet Sunnyside street remains a neighborhood essential. The menu is expansive and loosely pan-Indian, but the kitchen's strengths are clearest in its curries and tandoor, which arrive fresh, hot and well seasoned. The chef hails from Goa and brings particular focus to the "Indo-Portuguese" section, where dishes like lamb vindaloo stand out for their bright, vinegar-driven intensity rather than sheer heat. Elsewhere, vegetable dishes like saag paneer, lean green and restrained, letting the ingredients speak for themselves. Tandoori breads are well made, ideal for scooping and savoring the sauces. The kitchen may take its time, but the wait is rewarded.