ChefID · PENZA

MODERN RUSSIAN · OPEN

Zaseka

PenzaModern Russian

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The "Zaseka" restaurant, a legendary landmark of Russian cuisine, has reopened its doors. A symbol of Penza – the fairytale "terem" (a traditional Russian wooden house), the "Zaseka" restaurant with its 46-year history. Four traditional Russian ovens.

The fairytale Russian "terem," the "Zaseka" restaurant with its 45-year history, a symbol of Penza, is once again welcoming guests on the edge of the forest. The new chapter in this restaurant's story focuses on the natural landscape and man-made beauty, the traditional Russian oven, the magical atmosphere, familiar flavors, and new culinary discoveries.

There's a saying in Penza: "If you haven't been to 'Zaseka,' you haven't been to Penza." This legendary place opened in 1978 when the city authorities decided to build a symbolic carved "terem" near the 17th-century defensive line, a place where people could relax and have a bite to eat. Over time, this fairytale Russian house became one of the city's landmarks, and in the 2000s, it transformed from a small cafe into a large restaurant with a summer terrace surrounded by forest. In 2020, the wooden structure was completely destroyed by fire, and it took the restaurant owner, Margarita Ermonina, three years to rebuild this historic place.

Penza artists and craftsmen worked on the restoration of "Zaseka." The architectural project was created by Timofey and Andrei Timofeev. Carvings and furniture were created by Sergei Belanitsky and Alexander Lazarev, handmade macrame lampshades were made by Irina Guryeva, and installations and water chandeliers were created by the Sagarti company, which makes unique items from white porcelain, fiber optics, and crystal. Engineers equipped the wooden rooms with "smart" solutions, providing the restaurant with its own boiler room and well, systems for regulating heating and humidification, water purification and mineralization, a complete kitchen production cycle, and other useful features.

While preserving the original image of the fairytale carved "terem," "Zaseka" has become a modern eco-complex organically integrated into the natural and historical landscape. The restaurant now has three halls, each representing a different element: water – a large central hall with 100 seats, featuring a bar shaped like a real wooden boat; air – a "Winter Garden" with 80 seats; and fire – a banquet hall with a fireplace, accommodating 60 guests. A large summer terrace with 200 seats – an open veranda, gazebos, and ponds with water lilies – is located in the forest, just 15 minutes from the city center.

At the heart of the culinary experience, as befits a magical fairytale, are the traditional Russian ovens. Specifically, four Russian ovens, two "hospers" (wood-fired ovens), and a smoking oven, which are used to prepare most of the dishes and create the restaurant's unique atmosphere. The experienced chef, Timur Lyasnikov, is in charge of everything. He has worked at "TsDL" in Moscow, Brasserie Café Pouchkine in Paris, ZIMA in London, and many other places. In Penza, the chef and his team prepare traditional and авторские (author's) Russian dishes, preserving the restaurant's historical hits on the menu.

Those who have been to "Zaseka" will recognize the familiar flavors: the mushrooms baked in sour cream sauce according to a 1978 recipe, the lamb with buckwheat porridge, and the signature "syrniki" (Russian cheese pancakes) baked in the Russian oven.

In addition to the legendary dishes, the chef has new ideas and a fresh perspective on local products, such as the specially bred trout from the village of Gorodische, carp from Alferovka, "lensky" (Beluga) sturgeon from the Nikolsky district of the Kuznetsk region, and cheeses and sour cream from the Narovchatsky monastery.

Other news includes a "gastronomic shop" where you can buy restaurant specialties baked in the oven and smoked, and, of course, the unforgettable "Zaseka" liqueurs, including the signature "khrenovukha" (horseradish vodka). Speaking of drinks, Moscow sommelier Artem Chelobayev has developed an author's wine list with a focus on Russian wines for the new version of "Zaseka," and the chef and sommelier are planning to host gastronomic dinners with wine pairings.

Future plans include a line of dry-aged products, its own herb and vegetable garden, and active collaboration with local artisans. It is said that in the past, this place on the old defensive line was a square where folk festivals and fairs were held, where local craftsmen sold their handmade goods: pickles, honey, liqueurs, and various utensils. Whether true or not, the new "Zaseka" continues the best traditions of the city.

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Penza, Russia

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