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This boisterous hotspot offers up no shortage of personality. Almost everything on this distinctive menu passes through a battery of roaring wood-burning grills and hearths, lending a primal smokiness that pervades the food and room alike. At the end of the line is a single cook at an earthenware comal, preparing tortillas from heirloom corn nixtmalized and ground in-house. Menu standouts include the empanada oaxaquena, a turnover made with corn tortillas, stuffed with braised lamb barbacoa and served with salsa molcajete, and the lamb chops set over a black garlic mole negro with fried hoja santa leaves. Those hard-pressed to make decisions can opt for a tasting menu. In tandem, the bar provides a wealth of imaginative agave-based cocktails.
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