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Manul

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Manul – a gastronomic journey through Siberia: endemic species, wild ingredients, and authentic recipes, a shamanic interior, the warmth of a stove, and the magic of the taiga – all in the heart of Moscow.

The menu of the new Manul restaurant features dishes like Yenisei grayling and char, taiga elk, Taimyr deer, Khakas lamb, wild chives and nettle, dalgan and zabolony – it sounds like a journey through Siberia. Just as captivating and fascinating as the one that inspired this unique project. Six months of expeditions through Khakassia, Tuva, the Yenisei and Altai regions formed the basis not only of its cuisine, but also of its interior design and even its music. It introduces a new concept to Moscow – not "Siberian," but "of the peoples of Siberia," to showcase the traditions and uniqueness of each region. In Natalia Belonogova's shamanic interior, the gold of Tuva's Buddhist temples is reflected in the gold of the bar, the landscape of Khakassia is echoed in the relief of the walls, and the mirror-like surface of the Yenisei River is reflected in the black, glossy ceiling and shimmering glass panels. The images, ideas, textures, and materials inspired by nature make the restaurant feel authentic and immersive, transporting guests to the very heart of Siberia. And the sound design by the Odyssey label takes them on a musical journey, featuring the sounds of birdsong and shaman chants, the crackling of wood in a fire, and the sound of the wind, filling the space not just with music, but with atmosphere. Once again, for the first time, the cuisine of the peoples of Siberia and their national music have come together at Manul, creating a new, modern format that includes both gastronomic sets and sets by trendy DJs. A separate bar has been built for regular guests and invited stars, located between the chef's table and the golden bar.

Months of work with historians, ethnographers, chefs, and local residents of Siberia helped chef Viktor Shaidetzky gather a collection of authentic recipes and establish his own logistics. Lamb from nomadic sheep farming, taiga game, Yenisei, Lensky, and northern fish, wild ingredients – everything needed to tell the story of Siberia, conveying its flavors as honestly as possible, is delivered directly to the restaurant. Based on endemic species and traditional dishes, the chefs create a modern, author's cuisine. They add hemp oil and pine zabolony to the sauce for the tugun, season the sugaiday made with char with chives and sea buckthorn oil, garnish the fish pate with lacto-fermented young pine shoots and fried birch leaves, and prepare a fish pie with a dandelion and cedar nut sauce, served with smoked nelma cooked on rowan and cherry branches. Recipes from Old Believers are revived in the ukha-kerzhach and baked char, while sogaz liver, huujuury pies, and horse meat dumplings called kazybelmene offer even more opportunities to talk about the culture and customs of the indigenous peoples. Head bartender Maxim Ardatsky continues the exploration through drinks: elderflower cordial, gooseberry tequila, and rhubarb cordial – following the seasonal calendar, the bar is filled with new flavors.

Looking at Moscow through the slanted eyes of a Pallas's cat, in which Belonogova has hidden the windows, the Manul restaurant has truly brought history to life. It has revived forgotten recipes, built a Russian stove just a stone's throw from Red Square, and assembled the largest menu of raw fish, which may seem exotic to many. And it has lit a fire. So that, comfortably seated in a fur chair or hidden in one of the two rooms behind a glass wall, you can watch the sparks fly from the fireplace, feel its subtle aroma, and dream of new hikes and travels.

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Moscow, Russia

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