Luo Ji Mian Xian Hu

By the fading sign and vintage enamelware, it’s not hard to believe this noodle shop opened its doors 40 years ago. It focuses on mee sua gou – a wheat vermicelli soup of porridge consistency. Feel free to jazz it up with toppings like vinegar pork, pork intestine or oyster. Suck up the broth with a fried dough stick. Sautéed pork liver is another must-try: lightly coated in sweet potato starch, the liver has a burnt crust and a juicy centre.