Kōsen

This elegant restaurant takes a minimalist approach to its design, employing a dark color palette instead of the typical blonde wood, but all eyes should be on the omakase, which Chef Andrew Huang runs with skill and precision. Three thin slices of scallops in a bright and vibrant strawberry vinegar with scallions impresses, while tempura-fried kamasu, served with myoga and chilled, roasted sweet eggplant, is smart and spot on. After a handful of dishes from the kitchen, they progress into the nigiri. There’s plenty of showmanship and style, but the sushi leans traditional without a lot of fuss, as in the ishidai topped with house-made kosho and the kombu-cured red rockfish topped with salt and lemon zest.