Holodok

The seafood bistro, "Kholodok," focuses on a raw bar featuring oysters, tiradito, sashimi, crudo, tartare, and both black and red caviar. All the ingredients are sourced exclusively from Russia: the northern seas, the Far East, and central Russia.

"Kholodok" offers Murmansk sea urchins with Kamchatka salmon roe and Far Eastern oysters with a dressing made from radishes grown in the Moscow region. The wine list features a selection of northern wines, and there's a wide variety of champagnes available by the glass. The restaurant, owned by restaurateur Andrey Telesh (known for Bagebi in Moscow and Grebeshki in St. Petersburg and Teriberka), is located in a historic Moscow mansion from the late 19th century and evokes a sense of Nordic coolness and cozy minimalism.

Andrey Telesh explains, "We are Russian, and we want to eat our own fish at home, while ordering octopus from Morocco, sea bass from Turkey, and tuna, of course, from Japan. In Moscow, we offer our own, Russian products, which we love and know how to prepare."

The small bistro, with seating for 35, is located in a historic mansion designed by architect Semyon Kulagin and made famous by Mikhail Bulgakov, who housed Professor Preobrazhensky there. The restaurant's design incorporates elements of the building's architecture, including ideal proportions, high ceilings with ornate moldings, panoramic windows, and a sense of timelessness. Designer Svetlana Pozdnyakova, a member of the Russian Designers' Union, has created an atmosphere that combines the aristocratic elegance of St. Petersburg with a Nordic aesthetic, featuring cool gray tones and a comfortable, hygge-inspired ambiance. The restaurant has two dining areas: a main room with an open kitchen and a compact bar, and a smaller room with a round table, a moon-shaped chandelier, and a display of copper carp on the wall. A large painting by Khabarovsk artist Ivan Fedotov, depicting silver fish, dominates the main room.

Chef Yegor Popov (formerly of Grebeshki in St. Petersburg) emphasizes natural cooking techniques that preserve the flavor of the ingredients. The focus is on quality products, with caviar taking center stage. The restaurant imports large quantities of salmon and pink salmon roe from the Far East, which is free of salt and preservatives. The caviar is served with homemade bread and whipped butter and is also used in many of the dishes. The menu is divided into three sections: Cold, Hot, and Desserts.

The "Cold" section features a variety of oysters. Murmansk sea urchins are served with egg yolk and ponzu sauce (300 rubles) or lime (300 rubles). Far Eastern scallops are served with strawberries and basil (650 rubles), or with a Mexican-inspired pico de gallo and cilantro (650 rubles). Far Eastern oysters are served with a dressing made from radishes and cucumbers (650 rubles), a nod to childhood summers spent with grandparents; with marinated red Yalta onions in hibiscus (650 rubles), a twist on the classic vinaigrette; or with som-tam (a Thai green papaya salad) and yellow mango (650 rubles).

Chef Popov sources fresh, whole fish, which he then fillets and portions. The steaks are used for hot dishes, the fillets for ceviche, tartare, and tiradito, and the remaining parts are used for rillettes or soup. For example, Amur muksun (a type of fish) has delicate white meat, which is used to make ceviche with "tiger milk" and tomatoes (700 rubles), a tangy and spicy dish that awakens the palate; a creamy rillette made from the tail section, served with smoked sour cream and a citrus cream on shanga (a type of flatbread from northern Russia) (750 rubles). The fish soup is also made with muksun, as well as Black Sea rapan clams, White Sea mussels, trout, Far Eastern scallops, and northern and Magadan shrimp (950 rubles). A muksun steak, pan-seared to perfection, is served with hollandaise sauce, sorrel, and caviar (1400 rubles).

Andrey Telesh highlights several signature dishes on the menu, including a non-traditional gazpacho with crab and watermelon, where all the ingredients are finely chopped and not blended (900 rubles); sashimi made from trout fillet with Japanese ponzu and redcurrant berries (650 rubles); and lasagna with trout and pesto (1600 rubles).

Sommelier Yulia Lomi emphasizes the importance of wine in the dining experience. She has curated a wine list with a focus on northern wines, which are known for their acidity and purity. The wine list also features a wide selection of champagnes, available by the glass. There is a larger selection of red wines, and Yulia assures that they pair well with fish.