HAEBEL

This tiny 14-seat restaurant is tucked away in a characteristic corner of St Pauli, amid the neighbourhood's bustle and graffiti. Behind the large windows looking out onto the street, the setting is intimate – it almost has the feel of a living room – with a kitchen open to the dining area. An engagingly creative surprise menu is served (in both conventional and vegetarian versions), comprising around 13 amuse-bouches and small dishes. Although pared down, these are complex and refined, full of finesse and occasionally daring in their bold flavours. Fermentation techniques and Asian influences are recurring themes. Examples such as "scallop hotpot, sansho, guanciale, smoked butter, kaffir lime, uni" or "glazed duck leg, caramelised celeriac jus, long pepper oil, new potato" are highly distinctive and anything but run of the mill. Service is very friendly – diners are addressed informally – and the chefs serve the dishes themselves. A charming touch: At the end of the meal, you receive a printed copy of the menu.