Bandol sur mer

Surprised to find MICHELIN-starred cuisine in this casual, laid-back restaurant with its "shabby chic" style? Granted, the small space – once home to a kebab shop – does look a little unkempt: in the dimly lit and very simple interior, the tables (without tablecloths) are tightly packed, and the individual furnishing details include vintage elements, some of which date back to the former East Germany. In the open kitchen, Andreas Saul shows remarkable passion, precision, originality and creativity. His cooking, which is regional, proves to be pretty innovative. For instance, his "carrot charcuterie" is made using edible mould, as indeed is standard for making salami. They also like to do their own fermenting and smoking. You will detect influences from the Far East, too (eg kimchi). The cleverly devised set menu is rife with unique flavours. Comprising seven courses, it comes in two variations – with fish/meat or vegetarian. Good wine or alcohol-free drinks pairings. Conclusion: high-level cuisine coupled with a pleasingly down-to-earth attitude.