NOODLES

Yunhe Noodle (Huangpu)

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This noodle shop with a subtle sign may not draw much attention from the outside, but the interior is a different world, in which neon signs and graffiti murals subvert expectations. House-made plain or spinach noodles are topped with crabmeat and crab roe or the strictly seasonal "shrimp trio" (shrimps, tomalley and roe), and both impress with utmost freshness. Side dishes such as seaweed-crusted yellow croaker and sautéed chicken gizzard are also a treat.

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