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The spirit of San Sebastián is strong at this playfully named restaurant that fuses together a pintxos bar and a simply styled restaurant. The non-bookable bar area is a brilliant spot if you want to drop in for a cocktail and some snacks, but the main restaurant offers a more extensive menu of the kitchen’s terrific Spain-meets-Cornwall cooking. The region’s produce is put to brilliant use in clean, flavoursome dishes like super-fresh mackerel with Aral Farm beetroot. To finish, the crema Catalana is a must. A well-compiled wine list and wide cocktail selection add to the joy.

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