Berenjak

Based on the hole-in-the-wall 'kabab' houses of Tehran, this is a terrifically fun little spot in the heart of Soho. Exposed brick and painted plasterwork suit the buzzy atmosphere, with the best place to sit being at the kitchen counter so you can watch your food being prepared in the tandoor and the mangal barbecue. The cooking is generous and flavoursome, with dishes such as coal-cooked aubergine or lamb shoulder kabab. There are other branches in Mayfair and Borough Market, as well as around the world.